Thursday, August 23, 2012

Port Alberni 100 this year



Port Alberni is celebrating its 100th birthday this year. The main attraction of the city’s centennial celebrations was a homecoming held on the August long weekend. The event brought together residents of the Valley and those no longer living in the community. Although my wife Pat and I moved to Nanaimo from Port Alberni ten years ago, we still feel deBinitely attached to the Alberni Valley. We take pleasure in our summer home at Sproat Lake and Pat continues to direct the community choir Timbre! who this year will celebrate their 40th anniversary season. And of course ourtwo grandchildren live in Port Alberni, which warrants scores of drives over the hump year round.

For those readers interested in the history of the Alberni Valley a new publication titled The Albernis – Then and Now (1912 to 2012) was unveiled as part of the celebrations by the Port Alberni Centennial Committee. The book compares photo images of the city of a century ago with the city of today and can be ordered from the Alberni Valley Museum, 4255 Wallace St., Port Alberni, B.C. V9Y 3Y6. The B&W photos I scanned from the book for this blog are part of the Alberni Valley Museum’s photography collection. With so much of my life being tied to the Alberni Valley I could probably write my own tome about my 60-­‐plus years living there. However, these particular photos triggered a few memories of my childhood.

As a youngster, the Birst time I ventured out on the waters of the Alberni Inlet I was about 12 years old. A school chum and myself had spiked together a raft made from railway ties that we’d found laying alongside the logging railway tracks at the log dump just west of Polly’s Point. Our plan was to see if we could paddle our way across the inlet to explore the west shore. The day we attempted our venture we were fortunate not to have been run down by a deep-­‐sea freighter that was groping its way at a snail's pace through the morning mist to berth at the harbour’s assembly wharf.

Over 6 decades later, the memories of that event came Blowing back as I sailed on the Alberni Inlet with our grandchildren Nathan and Matthew in the Puddle Duck boat races that were being held as part of the Port Alberni Centennial Celebrations. The racing was far from swift due to a lack of a steady breeze.

However, we did pretty well and maintain bragging rights for the next year by winning Birst place. What is a Puddle Duck you might ask? Put simply, it’s a one design-­‐racing sailboat that is basically a plywood box with a curved bottom. The straightforward hull can be made from 3 sheets of plywood, a can of glue, and a bit of house paint. The sail is made from a common plastic tarp cover.

Although I skippered the boat in the race at Harbour Quay, building the Puddle Duck was a family project by our son Cory, daughter-­‐in-­‐law Dorianne and our grandchildren Nathan and Matthew. Grandma Pat also contributed, driving over the hump from Nanaimo to help paint the hull. I was asked to skipper in the races when Cory was unable to do so.

Local sailing enthusiasts David and Pam Whitworth were the driving force behind the event in which 18 boats took part. The race drew a huge crowd to the Port Alberni waterfront and the organizers are hopeful that others will consider building the small inexpensive boats over the winter months, making for an expanded Bleet for next summer’s race. Will I be back next year to defend our victory? Absolutely, if I’m asked to be the skipper. 


Kind of Blue launches into H2O for the first time at Sproat Lake. 



There was just enough breeze for a maiden shakedown sail. The Mars Blying tanker can be seen in the distance.



Ken Crowshaw presents the trophy he dedicated to his parents and donated for the winner of the annual Puddle Duck race. Members of the Crowshaw family have lived in the Alberni Valley for more than 100 years.



L to R – Yours truly, Nathan, Pam Whitworth and Dave Whitworth with Matthew in front pose with the crystal trophy called the Crowshaw Cup.

How the Millers came to live in the Albernis

My parents, Dr. AP Miller and Evelyn Jones met in the City of Victoria. My father, who grew up in Winnipeg, was Binishing his internship at the Royal Jubilee Hospital in BC’s capital city where my mother was a nurse. Married on November 8, 1934 in Penticton where my mother’s family lived, they came immediately without a honeymoon to Port Alberni. Dad had been told the growing west coast twin communities of Alberni & Port Alberni had much potential and would be a prime place to open a medical practice. His Birst doctor’s ofBice was on the second Bloor of the Carmoor Block at Argyle and Kingsway streets, moving later to the Croll Block at Argyle St. and Third Ave. After an extended rental above MacDonald’s Pharmacy across 3rd Ave from the Croll Block, his Binal ofBice space before retirement was the Credit Union Building at 4th Ave and Angus Street.

The newlywed’s Birst home was located on Mar Street, a block east of 3rd Ave where Woodward’s Store would eventually be built. The property Woodward’s built on had been occupied by the home and park-­‐like gardens of Dr. Hilton, a pioneer valley doctor. Before I was born, my parents built a beautiful large family home at South Crescent and 7th Ave which my younger brother Terry and I would eventually grow up in. I even remember our telephone number -­‐ 530. You didn’t dial out in those days -­‐ one picked up the phone receiver and asked the operator (who was located in the BC Telephone exchange building on Argyle Street across from the Capital Theatre) to place the call to the person you wanted to talk to. 


Photo above: My father’s Birst doctor’s ofBice was on the second Bloor of the Carmoor Block across the street from the E&N Train Station.



Photos abov: The Miller family home on South Crescent – The property included a second lot bordering Montrose Street which was cleared and worked up as a gorgeous garden of rose trellises and a kidney shaped Bish pond with a tumbling waterfall. Years later Pat & I had master builder Lothar Haack build our Birst home on the property.




Photo above: In early April of 1938 my mother boarded the morning train from Port Alberni’s E&N station to travel to Victoria to have me. I was born later that month at the Royal Jubilee, the same hospital where my parents had met. In letters to my father, who had remained in Port Alberni to look after his patients, my mother describes the bumping and lurching train ride to Victoria. I believe this must be where my interest in trains originated. 



I attended 8th Ave Elementary School in South Port Alberni. In my Grade 6 year I recall getting the strap almost on a weekly basis for speaking out of turn. One winter I received several strappings from Principal Murray for throwing snowballs too close to the main entrance of the school. For generations, whacking a child on the hand with a leather strap for violating certain school rules was considered an acceptable form of discipline in the B.C. public school system. The practice was still going on when I became a teacher in the mid-­‐1960’s at EJ Dunn, although parents andeducators were beginning to question whether using physical violence to get students to "behave" was appropriate. The barbaric practice was Binally abolished by the BC legislature in 1973, 24 years too late for me!

My Birst year of high school was taken in a cluster of army camp H-­‐Huts that had been constructed to house soldiers being trained to Bight World War II. The camp was located at the north end of 10th Ave. One building, now known as Glenwood Centre, is one of the few camp buildings remaining. It had served as the Army Camp’s drill hall. My remaining high school years were spent in a brand new school, which opened the following year on Burde Street. We had an extra month of summer holidays waiting for the construction to be complete.

The years at Alberni District High School set the path my life would take. Although I can’t say I was an academic student by any stretch of the imagination, I reveled in the music and drama programs offered inthe curriculum. Several dedicated teachers introduced me to the world of jazz and musical theatre, something for which I’m eternally grateful. So much so that years later after studying music in Los Angeles, California, I returned to teach instrumental music in the Alberni school system. First at EJ Dunn Secondary School and later at ADSS, I had the privilege of introducing several more generations to the joy and importance of the performing arts to one’s life.

Now in this 100th year of Port Alberni, our grandson Nathan will attend a brand new high school set to open in September. My only regret is the music building I fought so hard for and had built in the old high school along with the 1000 seat auditorium that I performed in for over 50 years, will be knocked down. However, time doesn’t stand still and Pat and I are excited about the possibility of performing some concerts with Timbre! Choir in the new 500-­‐seat community theatre that will be part of the new high school complex. 


PHOTO ABOVE: This section of the Somass Hotel that faced the E&N train station was still in operation when I was a youngster. I recall having many family Sunday dinners in the hotel’s elegant dining room that led off from the balcony that can be seen at the top of the stairs coming up from the street. This part of the hotel burned to the ground in 1947. 



PHOTO (Above): This photo shows the Birst Port Alberni community band. My guess it was taken in front of the wooden band stand that stood between the E&N train station and the Somass Hotel at the foot of Arygle Street. As a youngster, my Birst awareness of brass band music came from watching the Elks Band perform in the May Day parades of the 1940’s. 

Dexter Wallbank who taught private piano and violin lessons in the valley directed the band. In parades the ensemble didn’t march but usually rode atop the Blat deck of a Tom’s Bros Moving Co. truck. I remember a common decoration on parade Bloats in those days was Blowering Scotch Broom. These days island communities stage an annual war against the obnoxious weed that was brought to Vancouver Island from Europe in 1850 by a Captain Grant who planted it on his farm near Victoria.

During the mid-­‐1950’s school orchestras and bands were introduced into the curriculum in BC schools and soon after the Elks Club Band disbanded, donating many of their instruments to the ADHS music program. Happily, the last few years have seen a community band re-­‐formed. It was Birst known as the Rubber Band, a handle I’m thankful to say has been changed to the Alberni Valley Community Band. The ensemble is currently directed by Cory Miller and is a member of the Port Alberni Orchestra and Chorus Society. New members are always welcome.

Happy 100th Birthday Port Alberni    












Only 5 performances left to see Hello Dolly


The Pit Band for Hello Dolly currently playing at the Village Theatre in Qualicum Beach. 
Musicians: Michael Irving (trumpet), Ben Dwyer (bass – August sub for Brian Anderson), Darren Nilsson (trombone), Cindy Spellman (flute), Claudio Fantinato (clarinet), Michael Wright (percussion) and myself on piano. Calling us the Pit Band is a bit of a misdemeanor considering we actually play the show located on a loft built above the actors on stage. 
There are only 5 more chances to see the classic musical Hello Dolly – Aug 5, 6, 9, 10 & 11. Curtain time for all shows is 7:30 pm except Aug 5th (today) which is a 2pm matinee.  Alternating on different nights with Hello Dolly is a comedy titled Becky’s New Car. Dates remaining for this show are –  7, 8, 12 (2pm), 13, 14,15 & 18. The Teen Musical Theatre presentation A Kidsummer Night’s Dream  plays 16, 17, & 18 (2pm). To book tickets for Bard 2 Broadway phone 250-752-4470 or send a message to info@b2btheatre.com.  For further information check out the B2B website at www.b2btheatre.com
Olympic Games Opening Ceremony from London a stunner

I started writing this blog a few hours after watching the Olympic Games Opening Ceremony broadcast live from London last week. Leading up to the event I was forever reading articles or hearing on TV news shows that London would never be able to match the gargantuan Olympic opener the authoritarian leadership of China launched four years ago. I beg to differ. I thought the London ceremony stood up just fine against Beijing and was a heck of a lot more fun to watch. 

Staged on a mountain of green depicting the pastoral English countryside, the made-for-TV extravaganza took viewers on a journey through a montage of British history and culture. The centerpiece was the forging of the five Olympic rings by actors depicting workers of the industrial revolution. There were also some great comic cameos peppering the production. One had James Bond star Daniel Craig escorting the Queen from Buckingham Palace via a helicopter to the Olympic stadium then both of them parachuting into the ceremony. Can you imagine the Chinese poking fun at their head of state on such an occasion? Another sequence had British comedian Rowan Atkinson (Mr. Bean) vamping on synthesizer a single note on the theme from Chariots of Fire accompanied by a condensed version of the London Symphony Orchestra. If there’s one thing the British understand it’s the need for humour – it’s one of the more endearing characteristics of the English. 

There were also some deeply moving sequences. The tribute to the Britain’s National Healthcare System was truly inspirational; something I would never have guessed could be part of an Olympic ceremony’s entertainment line up.  Incorporating it collectively with the glories of great children’s literature was pure genius. British wags on the internet were blogging the piece must have made Prime Minister Cameron squirm considering his government is currently tinkering with the Kingdom’s healthcare structure, a sacred trust to most Brits.  However, not everything in the opening ceremony worked to my mind. I thought the social media interactive sequence was a dud. Paul McCartney pushing as best he could the Na Na Na Hey Jude chestnut I simply felt was boring to the bone. 

However, the many magical parts in the production far eclipsed the lifeless moments that included the longest march of Olympic athletes ever. Cranking the march tempo up to quick-step had no affect whatsoever on the sauntering stream of athletes. The show, conceived by British filmmaker Danny Boyle the Oscar winning director of Slumdog Millionaire, was truly unique - a trait the British entertainment arts are distinguished for. 




(Photo above) British comedian Rowan Atkinson (Mr. Bean) played the theme from Chariots of Fire at opening ceremony. 


British musicians not cheery about Olympics

What is it about the music profession that places it in a category where corporate identities, governments and a considerable percentage of the general public feel that musicians should be happy to perform for free? The Olympic Games is the most recent example. Music always plays a pivotal role in the games and yet the London Olympic Organizing Committee caused a furor by suggesting members of the British Musicians’ Union play for Olympic events without payment and be satisfied with the exposure surrounding the games. Can you imagine the British construction unions being asked to supply free labour to build all those Olympic facilities?

It’s true that well established British artists have chosen to perform for gratis at the major Olympic events such as the opening and closing ceremonies. Such artists can afford to and the world-wide TV exposure it gives their latest recordings and up-coming tours is a no-brainer for such established stars. However, in the case of the non-headlining musician trying to make a living performing in a profession that likely took a lifetime of hard work and study to perfect, being asked to play for free at non-televised Olympic events around London is downright insulting. 

Rubbing salt into the wound, the Olympic Organizing Committee insisted these musicians had to sign a document saying that they wouldn't publicize that they were playing at the Olympics, wouldn't sell merchandise, wear their logo on their clothing or hand out publicity.  Unbelievable! In my opinion the big-timers at the top should have threatened to withdraw from the opening and closing ceremonies unless their professional colleagues received a fair wage for their services. 
The official song of the Olympics is titled Survival and was played as the athletes trudged into the stadium during the Opening Ceremonies. I suggest it could be used as a tribute to all those hard-working musicians who somehow survive despite having to play the London Olympic games, with its multi-billion dollar budget and vast array of big business sponsors, for free.

Nanaimo train station opens
On Wednesday of last week my wife Pat and I donned our APR conductor’s uniforms to promote the Alberni Pacific Railway and McLean’s Mill at the re-opening of the Nanaimo Train Station. Unlike the Port Alberni station that is actually used as a train station, the Nanaimo station awaits the return of the VIA Dayliner service to Courtenay and Victoria. The service is promised for next year if repairs to the aging island railway’s infrastructure are accomplished.
The Nanaimo train station had been boarded up since an arson fire almost destroyed the building in 2007.  However, like the phoenix bird of Greek mythology, the station has risen from the ashes and stands as a monument to the strength of support (and optimism) there is for a return of rail and passenger service on Vancouver Island. The completely rebuilt station now houses an Irish pub called Fibber McGees and a section of the building is reserved to be used as a train station if and when a passenger service is resumed on the line. 




Swiss train trip continued - Interlaken/Berne/Munich



(Photo above) At the Interlaken station we boarded a German ICE (Inter City Express) train headed for Berlin. Our plan was to take the train as far as Berne, the capital of Switzerland, and spend a few hours touring the medieval city before continuing on to Munich. The equipment on the slick streamlined German train looked brand new.


(Photo above) Swiss Parliament Buildings 

The capital of Switzerland is Berne. The Swiss Confederation (conventional name of Switzerland) was founded on August 1,1291 and is a multi-party federal republic divided into Executive, Legislative and Judicial branch. The country is split into 26 administrative divisions called cantons. 

Switzerland does not have a full-time president. The representational functions of a president are taken over by one (or all) of the government members. Every year another member of the government team is elected federal president in turn so that every government member assumes this role once in seven years. The president is primus inter pares [first among equals] with very limited special powers. He or she sets the agenda of the weekly conferences and leads the discussion and reports to the population on the 1st of January and on the 1st of August, the National Holiday. Official foreign guests to Switzerland are usually welcomed by the government in corpore (all members).

BC’s ex-premier Bill Vandersalm would relish working in the Swiss parliamentary system as any change in the constitution, a referendum is mandatory and for any change in a law a referendum can be requested, although a member of the public must collect 50,000 signatures within 3 months to put it on a ballot. This makes Switzerland the closest state in the world to a direct democracy. In other words, the sovereign of Switzerland is actually its entire electorate. Contrary to most other countries today, being a member of the Swiss parliament is not a full time job.  This tends to make members of parliament to be seen as closer to the everyday life of their electorate.



(Photo above) The Cathedral of Berne (Das Berner Münster) is Switzerland's largest ecclesiastical building. Construction started in 1421 and continued under a series of different builders for generations.

(Photo above) The Cathedral of Berne (Das Berner Münster) is Switzerland's largest ecclesiastical building. Construction started in 1421 and continued under a series of different builders for generations.

 (Photo above) Stained glassed windows in the Cathedral of Berne 
The plagues of the early 1500’s converted many of Zurich’s citizens to the Reformation. In 1527 the Reformed party gained control of the Cathedral’s great council and it ordered that the new faith should be preached. However, there was an inconsistency in that some congregations in the city were still observing the mass.  It was decided that there should be a religious disputation at Berne and on January 6, 1528 a meeting of church leaders was held to settle the question. The result was the council ordered that throughout the city all masses should be stopped and all icons cast out. Following on February 7, 1528, it ordered the same for the whole canton (province). In April 1528, a Protestant service was first celebrated in the Cathedral (Münster).


The photo above is the famous Berne musical clock tower. The astronomical clock was first mentioned in the city accounts of 1444 when it had to be repainted. It therefore dates from the early 15th century. We stood before the clock tower at 1 pm, not the best time. 12 noon would have been preferable in order to hear a longer session of the clock bells chiming.
Returning to the Berne train station, we retrieved our luggage from a locker and caught the train to Zurich. 

(Photo above) - Downtown Zurich is located on the banks of the river Limmat.
Arriving in Zurich in the late afternoon we took a tram to the lakeshore. A German Oomph-Pa Band was performing on the pier of the local boating club. We tried to get closer to the concert but it was a private member’s party only and the grounds were gated.  After taking a 1-hour boat cruise on Lake Zurich we downed some Bratwürste cooked by a park vendor and took a walk along the river Limmat. We still had one more heritage railway to visit before leaving Switzerland. Boarding a local train at the Zurich station the following morning, we traveled northeast to Winterthur, transferring to a second train to the small town of Bauma. 

The station platform at Bauma is shared with the Dampfbahnverein Zürcher Oberland railway and is one of the most interesting preserved rail lines in Switzerland. 
(Photo above) In front of the train shed in Bauma, these steam locomotives built in 1907 by SLM (Swiss locomotive & machine factory) prepare for a hard day’s work. The young firemen on the steam locomotives are National Swiss Railway apprentice employees and are paid a full wage by the national network as they work towards their certification as professional train drivers. The program guarantees the historic steam engines will have trained crews available into the future.
The DVZO association started its operations in 1978 on a stretch of private line called the Uerikon-Bauma Bahn that had just been closed. The line had been initially constructed by a local industrial tycoon Guyer-Zeller to access his factory but since it merely linked a number of small villages the railway never satisfied actual traffic needs.
Over time the association has equipped the line with semaphore signals, historic railroad crossings and restored the old infrastructure including several steam locomotives. The line runs from Bauma to Hinwil and features steep grades of over 20%, so the steam engines have to work hard on each trip.



(Photo above): Commuters in Switzerland use their bicycles to get to the station to catch a train to work. This station in Winterthur had underground parking for hundreds of bikes. You don’t have to wear a helmet to ride a bicycle in Switzerland. I think more folks in this country would commute by bike to work if helmets weren’t mandatory, especially those women who don’t like having their hair messed.




After our round trip on the DVZO we boarded a train back to Winterthur and transferred to a local train to the platform stop of Schloss Laufen am Rheifall near the city of Schaffhausen. Here we walked a short distance along the cliffs above the River Rhine to view Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest waterfall. The falls are truly magnificent, not so much for their height as for their impressive width and the sheer drama of the place with the spray rising in a cloud of rainbows above the forested banks. The turreted castle Schloss Laufen on a cliff directly above the falls to the south completes the spectacle.
Hiking down a switchback trail to a small riverside jetty we climbed aboard one of the daredevil skiff-like boats that scurry around in the spray.
Returning to Winterthur we re-boarded a mainline train to Zurich. This was our final day in Switzerland and we topped it off in the evening with a meal called Röschti, a dish consisting mostly of potatoes. Usually the dish (similar to our hash browns) accompanies a meat side dish such as bacon or sausage. The following day we flew to London. Half the time in the short trip is spent circling Heathrow Airport waiting in stack formation for a slot to land. Proceeding though customs we caught the train to Paddington Station and stayed in the Hilton that is located within the terminal. Our time in London during the Queen’s Jubilee is documented in my June 11/12 blog. 
The train-spotting birthday present trip my brother Terry prepared for me to Switzerland was a trip of a lifetime. Writing about it this past month has enabled me to relive it all over again.
















Thursday, August 9, 2012


Hello Dolly playing in Qualicum


For five weeks this summer I’m tinkling the ivories and directing the orchestra for the Bard 2 Broadway Society’s summer production of Hello Dolly now playing on stage at the Village Theatre in Qualicum Beach. Taking on the project also involved several months this past winter of rewriting the score so it could be played by 7 musicians instead of the 18-plus players the original Broadway production was arranged for. 
Two weeks before opening night I met the cast and did a run through accompanying them on piano. Although the rehearsal was a little bumpy, likely due to the fact I had to stop periodically and get my cues straightened out, I had the distinct feeling this show was going to be one among the best that the company has produced. Director Gary Brown has done a brilliant job molding various veteran talents from past B2B presentations with a number of up and coming youngsters into a cohesive fast-paced production. I guarantee you’ll not be able to leave the theatre without humming a song from this hilarious show.
Putting together a production such as Hello Dolly doesn’t happen overnight. Kudos to two talented musicians who spent several months preparing the cast for opening night - Hilary Whelton as choral director and Kathy Harper who acted as rehearsal pianist. Choreographer Donna Wilkins’ originality is also in evidence throughout the show.
Alternating on different nights with Hello Dolly this season is a riotous comedy titled Becky’s New Car. My wife Pat, my brother Terry and I attended the final dress rehearsal and enjoyed the play immensely. 
For a full review of B2B’s Hello Dolly production click the link below to the Parksville/Qualicum News: http://www.pqbnews.com/entertainment/162351196.html


What a gorgeous July we’ve had weather wise at our summer house at Sproat Lake. After the June snow melt of Mount Klitsa, the lake has finally heated up to my satisfaction. On Hello Dolly show nights driving over the hump to Qualicum Beach has also been pleasant – especially the traffic-free return trips when the night is warm and the summer sun has just dropped behind the mountains. With all my car windows cranked down and a good piano jazz album playing in the CD player, nothing could be closer to heaven. 
This year Port Alberni is celebrating its 100th birthday. The long weekend of August 3, 4 and 5th has been designated as the Homecoming Weekend. If you lived in Port Alberni at one time or are a current resident of the Valley you’ll not want to miss any of the planned events. Go online at www.portalberni.ca to access the complete list.
After completing our shift on the Alberni Pacific Railway last week Pat and I visited another railway operation in the valley, this one much smaller – Ken Rutherford’s Garden Railway.
What is a garden railway you might ask? In England garden railways have been around since the 1860’s. For decades, the development of model railways was similar to that of full-size railways. Railroad builders often built models to test theories and to present their ideas to investors. 
In the United States, garden railroads were almost unheard of throughout the 1950s and 1960s. They were out of favor in Britain during this period as well, but because they had achieved more popularity in earlier years, they still existed in some numbers. 

The rolling stock inherent in a garden railway is a much larger scale than the more common model railway (e.g. HO gauge) that one sees inside a train hobbyist’s home. However, in the 1970’s information about European manufactured garden trains started appearing in US model train magazines and the flame was kindled in North America. 



(Above) Ken Rutherford is shown here wiping off the track to stop one of his locomotives from slipping on the grade.


(Above) A coal train climbs up the grade on the trestle. The hopper cars are filled with miniature chunks of real coal found at an old mine site in Nanaimo. 




My Swiss Railway Odyssey with brother Terry continues…….. 

Montreux to Interlaken on the Golden Pass Panorama Railway


Photo left: After our stay in Montreux we boarded the Golden Pass Panorama Express train to Interlaken. The train is unique with the locomotive having a bubble dome in the roof where the engineer sits above 8 VIP passengers in the front. Here I am seated ready to roll. Terry and I had the entire car to ourselves for the trip. Leaving the Lake Geneva waterfront (the Swiss Riviera) of palm trees, the French language and warm weather, the train climbed up 14% grades through lush vineyards and gardens. Passing through a tunnel at the top of the grade we ascended back into a world of fir trees and fast-flowing streams.





The view out of the huge windows at the front of the locomotive makes you feel like you’re inside an IMAX movie except this is real life. Almost all Swiss railway lines are electrified and it’s amazing how quickly the Golden Pass Panorama Express trains can ascend the 14% grades without slowing down at all. The Golden Pass track is one-meter gauge. 





Engine #5 was built in 1891. The Brienzer-Rothorn Bahn was opened in 1892 and has a cog configuration, meaning there is a toothed rack rail between the running rails. The trains are fitted with cog wheels or pinions that mesh with the rack rail. This allows the trains to operate on very steep grades, in this case 25%.

Photo below: View of the Brienzersee (lake) at the half way point of the ascent up the mountain.

Terry and I were the only passengers aboard the train, it being early in the tourist season.





 

(Photo above) Downtown Interlaken taken from our hotel room.


Our second day in Interlaken was spent ascending the Jungfrau to the highest railway station in Europe. The railway is a masterpiece of Swiss engineering, going into service in 1912. Of all the railways we rode while in Switzerland the Jungfrau Railway was without question the most spectacular. Attitudes to the Jungfrau Railway project had been mixed. Members of the Swiss Alpine Club were concerned about unobstructed access for mountain climbers. Some club members even wanted to lodge a petition 

against the building of the Jungfrau Railway and to call for a national protest movement. However, the criticism drew little response as the people of the valley saw tremendous potential in the railway’s presence to guarantee tourism in the area for all time.

Leaving Interlaken (1850 ft) our first stop was the rail junction town of Zweilutschinen (2142 ft). Here our train was split into two parts - one going to the ski area of Gimmelwald and ours to the alpine town of Grindelelwald (3393 ft). 

At Gimmelwald we changed trains to what is called the Yellow Train for the steep ascent to the town of Kl. Scheidegg (6762 ft). Here we switched trains once more, this time to the Red Train for our final ascent of the mountain.  At the village of Eigergletscher (7612 ft) there was a short stop to off-load some freight before entering a 4.5 mile tunnel that looped inside the mountain to reach the peak. The photo below shows our train stopped at Eigerwand (9400 ft) inside the mountain. We detrained for 5 minutes and walked through a tunnel to a viewpoint at the side of the mountain. The train then continued to the peak of the Jungfrau (11,333 ft).


At the peak passengers can stroll through ice tunnels cut into the glacier. Wow was it cold! I was glad I’d brought my ski vest with me. Hiking through the tunnels there were ice sculptures (photos below) cut into large caves within the glacier. Unfortunately the Jungfrau was cloaked in fog the day we visited so the view at the peak was somewhat restricted. 




Descending from the Jungfrau, at Kl. Scheidegg we switched trains for the fourth time today and traveled down the opposite side of the mountain. Passing through the Alpine village of Wengen, I looked back and could see the Jungfrau peak which had momentarily cleared. It was hard to believe we had reached all the way to the summit by train. Detraining at the village of Lauterbrunnen we took a city bus to Stechelberg to visit the Trummelbach Falls. To view these unique falls you have to enter by a tunnel. The falls are actually inside the mountain. 

Returning by bus to Lauterbrunnen we boarded our final train of the day to Interlaken.  The scenery I’d seen today is what I always imagined Switzerland to be – a land of mountains, small villages, lush valleys and pristine lakes. 




(Above) The Red Train at Kl. Scheidegg station


Trummelbach Falls


Descending on the Yellow Train to Lauterbrunnen


Lauterbrunnen Valley - The land of 72 waterfalls.


The Alpine village of Wengen. Jungfrau in background